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Vientiane is the capital of Lao PDR, and though I tend to hate all Asian capitals, I've grown to like Vientiane (along with Phnom Penh). It's a sleepy town, but very pedestrian friendly and bike friendly.
However, 1 to 2 days should be enough for you to see the most of Vientiane. I've written about Buddha Park already, but here are some other sights to enjoy while you're in the city for a day, and all can be done on foot!

1. The Laos National Museum

This museum was originally built in 1925 as the French governor’s residence, but now, it focuses on the history of Laos albeit from an anti-American stance, highlighting the Laotian people’s struggle to free the country from foreign occupiers and imperialist forces. Although the museum from the inside is in disarray, what is worth noticing is the anti-American rhetoric.


After I went home, I discovered that the US was involved in a secret war in Lao. Much of the northern part of Lao was bombed by the Americans to fight the Communists in Vietnam. In fact,  the US pledged support to the Royal Lao Government and conducted nearly 600,000 bombing runs in an attempt to oust communist forces throughout the sovereign state. Predictably, it was not the combatants but rather the civilians who suffered most, and they were not communists. They were simply innocent people.

2. Morning in Wat Sisaket 
Wat Sistaket is the oldest monastery in Lao, well known for the number of Buddha images inside. It's best known for the Buddha statues as well as some really interesting Buddha photos. What I found interesting is how Buddhist is visualized in Lao, that is very different from in India and Korea too.


The temple was built in 1818 on the order of King Anouvong. Kind Anouvong was the last king of Vientiane, who led the Lao rebellion against the Siamese. Surprisingly, he built this temple in the Siamese style of Buddhist architecture, with a surrounding terrace and an ornate roof, rather than in the Lao style.



It is believed that this design actually helped in keeping it safe, when the armies of Siam  sacked Vientiane. When the French colonialists arrived, they restored Wat Si Saket in 1924 and again in 1930. The temple houses a museum and is well known for a line of ceramic Buddha images.



3. Presidential Palace
Once done with the Wat, head over to the Presidential Palace where you will see lots of Asian tourists taking pictures. It is just opposite the Wat Sisaket and is a new building designed in 973 as the residence for Laos’ royal family. When the communists took over, the construction of this palace was delayed.


The palace looks very grand and European, with White House feels. I couldn't enter is since its closed off to the public.  Now, the Presidential Palace is only a venue for government functions – the president’s actual home is actually located in a separate suburb of Vientiane.

4. Patuxai Park and Victory Gate
Across the Presidential Palace is a large highway road that leads up to the Patuxai Park. Patuxai means Victory Gate or Gate of Triumph. It is a war monument dedicated to those who fought in the struggle for independence from France.


Though I didn't know it, Patuxai Victory Gate is meant to resemble a famous structure called the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. However, the Vientiane version is a tad bit taller, made of concrete, and is  Laotian in design with some Lao mythical creatures. It was built from funds given by the US to build an airport, expect the Lao government built this.

 5. City Center Wats and Coffee
A few less frequented Wats can be visited in the city center. One is Wat Inpheng, which was built in the 16th century but destroyed in 1827 by the invading Siamese army. Later, it was rebuilt and has since been renovated several times. The other is Wat Ong Teu. It is well known for the large, bronze Phra Ong Teu Buddha in the temple. Like the other Wat Inpheng, it got destroyed by the Burmese, and later reconstructed. Both the wats are located near great coffee shops (and Vientiane has great and cheap coffee so don't miss it!)


6. An Evening Visit to Wat Xieng Nyeun and the Park
Though you're going to be sick of seeing temples, this one could be easily fit in with a visit to the Anouvang park across. I never know how to pronounce this temple, but its located conveniently on the riverfront road. Just directly opposite it is a nice shady park called Anouvong Park and the Chao Anouvong statue, where you can relax afterwards. Wat Xieng Nyeun is mostly overlooked by the crowds of tourists that flock to the better-known alternatives. It means visitors can get a more authentic glimpse of the daily workings of a Buddhist temple.  Its also right next to a great massage place. 


7. Finish at the Night Market
As you walk along the riverfront from the Park, if its after 5 - 6 pm, you will see stalls being set up. That is Vientiane’s night market. Though the stuff is not so great, it is fun to walk through. I'd say its a little like the underground markets in Seoul, but cheaper. You can, however, get some $1-2 shorts and summer attire.
Not bad!

Some food is also sold there, but I'd advise against the food. It may not be the most hygienic.  Instead, a few options would be to try out the House of Fruit Shakes,  Ray's Grille Burgers & Mexican, Common Ground or any local Laos food you fancy!
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When most people go to Laos, they tend to visit Luang Prabang only. However, Pakse is also worth a visit. It is the capital city of Champasak province in Southern Laos. The city was founded by the French in 1905 when Laos was part of French Indochina. Some buildings like the Chinese society building still remain from the colonial era.

I visited the city for work, as we were supporting the city to develop a sustainable water and wastewater plan thre. The reason is because the city is growing rapidly and is the second largest after the capital Vientiane. It also shares a bridge with Thailand, over the Mekong river, which is worth a visit as well.

Since the downtown Pakse area is small, most of it can be explored on foot. Alternatively, a tuk tuk or samlor will cost around 5,000 to 10,000 Kip per person in the downtown area depending on the number of passengers and distance. A private taxi to a destination outside of town can be booked at travel agent or hotel.

There are a number of temples in Pakse, some old, some new, but one that is really worth seeing is the Wat Phou temple. It is an ancient Khmer temple that resembles Angkor Wat. The temple is from the 10th century, and located 40 kilometers South of Pakse. The temple is of Khmer architecture and Hindu religion and is situated at the foot of a hill. 

Getting to the temple is a tad bit complicated. You'd need to hire a motor which is the best option. We had a van hire but split among many, so it came down to 20,000 kip.The temple ticket includes entrance to a museum (which we skipped). The temple and site is open from 8:00am - 5:00pm while the museum is open till 4:30pm. An entrance ticket costs foreigners: 50,000 kips (approx $6) and the ticket is valid for a whole day.

If you happen to go in March, you can also experience a Buddhist festival at Wat Phou, held during the full moon of the third lunar month. The ticket includes a ride by golf kart to the entrance gate of the temple, less than 1 kilometer away.

         

The Vat Phou Temple is a remarkably well-preserved planned landscape, more than 1,000 years old. It was shaped to express the Hindu vision of the relationship between nature and humanity, using an axis from mountain top to river bank to lay out a geometric pattern of temples, shrines and waterworks extending over some 10 km. Two planned cities on the banks of the Mekong River are also part of the site, as well as Phou Kao mountain. The whole represents a development ranging from the 5th to 15th centuries, mainly associated with the Khmer Empire. The summit, Phou Kao is identified in ancient times with the linga, the phallic symbol of Shiva, from which originated its ancient name, Lingaparvata, and its reputation as a sacred hill. At the base are some structures, and then there is a processional walkway that leads to a stairway lined with trees. 


At the top is a main sanctuary that was dedicated to Shiva. Inscriptions from to the 5th and 6th centuries mention such a sanctuary that is built on the mountain, during the same period as the foundation of the city. The original sanctuary has been replaced by the religious complex we see today.

This complex was built during the first part of the 11th century, with some additions and reconstructions from the 12th and 13th centuries. 

The sanctuary is located on a terrace at the foot of the cliff where the sacred spring flows. The permanent spring, at the foot of the cliffs, is probably one of the main reasons that induced the ancient rulers of the area to establish a shivaist sanctuary at this location. 

Associated with this religious complex, in the plain below, on the banks of the Mekong, is a pre-angkorian city, the remains of which (large earthen enclosure walls, brick monuments) are barely visible on the ground, although they appear quite clearly on aerial pictures. 
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A really quirky and interesting place to visit in Vientiane, or rather, an hour out of Vientiane is Buddha Park. The park was built in 1958 by Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat, a monk who studied both Buddhism and Hinduism. This explains why his park is full not only of Buddha images but also of Hindu gods as well as demons and animals from both beliefs. Interestingly, this guy later moved to Thailand where he created a similar park named Sala Keoku in Nong Khai, on the other side of the Mekong river. I've made it a point to check that out too.

First, to get here, take a tuk tuk or walk to the main bus station at the city center. From there, head on to the bus that goes to Buddha Park - It should cost about 6,000 kips, which is around 75 cents!! The bus takes around an hour to get to the park and then, the entrance is around 5,000 kips.


As soon as you enter the park, you will see the giant pumpkin structure standing about three stories high to your right. The entrance of this structure is crafted to look like a demon’s mouth (about three metres high) with a very narrow stone ladder inside leading to a bird's eye view of the entire park.


Although there are no signs to explain the structures, what I understood from reading about this place later, was that the three floors in the pumpkin structure represent Hell, Earth and Heaven.

Getting to the top isn't really easy given how narrow the steps are. However, inside, you will be sheltered from the heat, and also experience some cool mythology first hand. I'm not really sure what these images meant, but there is some real creepy stuff going on. It has a medusa feel, with snakes around Buddha, and I am not sure exactly what story this comes from.


Within the park itself are some outstanding sculptures which make your hair stand on end. One really gorgeous one was that of Indra, the king of Hindu gods riding the three-headed elephant (aka Erawan and Airavata).


Another one was of an artistic deity with 12 faces and many hands, each holding interesting objects. They are all equally impressive not only because of their enormous size but because they are full of interesting details and interesting motifs.


Finally, there is a Buddha on what looks like a snake but is really a naga or Mucalinda, a deity or class of entity or being taking the form of a very great snake, specifically the king cobra.This depiction is very common and the subject of Buddha meditating under the protection of Mucalinda is very common in Lao Buddhist art.


The masterpiece was the resting Buddha which is something like 400 meters long, and certainly a sight to behold.


Finally, there is also a normal Buddha in the typical lotus pose, or so I believe...


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About me

Hi everyone! I'm Laila. Welcome to my blog! Here, you'll find stories of me and my family as we explore the world. It's not easy traveling when you often need visas, or you have kids, but we have made travel work for us! Join us, as we make some curious discoveries of history, food and culture while treading on new paths.

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