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Last weekend, the warm weather summoned us to be outdoors, and given that we were sick and tired of waiting for our second born to pop out soon, we decided to explore some new places nearby. In the mood for some South Asian cuisine, we decided to head to Surrey and also make a visit to the Historic Stewart Farm, situated in a large park called the Elgin Heritage Park.

The Stewart Farm is the only intact farm complex from the late nineteenth century remaining in Surrey. Unlike Burnaby Village Museum, the Stewart Farm does not have any fancy exhibits, but the main  two storey wood-frame farmhouse is quite an interesting visit! Outside of the main building, there are  seven other farm buildings: root cellar, wood shed, pole barn, bunkhouse, machine shed, threshing machine shed and garage. They aren't proper "exhibits" but its still nice to see the number of different structures in the farm complex. 

The main attraction, the two story house, is a fully furnished home, that demonstrates how a farming family lived. While the farmhouse is quite elaborate by today’s standards, it was not the largest or most lavish in local Victorian times. 

This farmhouse was the home of  John and Annie Stewart. John, who was from Scotland married Quebecois Annie Davidson in Nanaimo in 1884 and moved to Surrey to make a home here. Not alot is known about the two, but it has been pieced together from various sources. The Stewart were, however, certainly part of the growing community. With just two sons - a small family for the times - they would have rallied friends and nearby work crews to harvest their fields. The Stewarts owned 440 acres of land, including what visitors see now, as well as land across the river where the Stewarts had two additional barns.


The main parlor above shows room design styles in the late 1800s focused on use and comfort than display. Still, pretty busy with wall furnishings, carpets and lots of furniture. This was the area where the family entertained guests. The dining room below had many original items and belongings of the Stewart family. 


Below is a view from the veranda of the main farmhouse building. The exteriors of the farmhouse were all renovated.


Another building that had a small exhibit and visitors could walk through was the barn. It didnt really have much but some wall exhibits and writing.


We also saw some lanterns and remembered how we still use these in Pakistan in the rural areas, and used them all our lives growing up too.


The tour of the farmhouse took us less than an hour and we had a really nice tour guide tell us about everything about the family. Once we were done with that, we took a nice stroll in the park which overlooks the Nicomekl River. Interestingly, the river is tidal and sternwheeler boats originally travelled up the river to collect produce from the local farms. In the 1950-1970s era, the Ward family created a small boat launching marina and boat repair area. The wharf, boat moorage and launching ramp for non-motorized vessels have now been reconstructed.


All in all, this was a great visit! One can easily spend about 1-2 hours here, and while you are in the area, it definitely makes sense to grab a nice curry!
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While you may love Vancouver for its nature and temperate weather, you can also hate it for its rain that can spoil plans to explore the outdoors. In that case, it's best to check out some museums, because who doesn't like history? 


So here is a list of the museums to check out in the area:

Museum of Surrey – the museum at 17710 56a Avenue in Cloverdale is a pretty good one and admission is free. There is also a play area (closed temporarily due to COVID-19) for kids. You can read about my visit here.

Museum of Vancouver – a museum in Vanier Park in Kitsilano that shares the history of the city. It's a fairly small one, but definitely worth checking out on Family day when it is free.

Vancouver Maritime Museum – this museum is right next to the Museum of Vancouver, and is a small one, but has a ship inside to check out which is pretty cool. It's also free during family day and a small place. 

Vancouver Police Museum - a quaint museum near Vancouver's Chinatown showcasing a morgue as well as other things. Fairly small but tends to run regular promotions on the tickets. Read about my visit here.

Britannia Mine – a museum that’s 45 minutes from downtown Vancouver and formerly the largest copper mine in the British Empire. (Note: It’s mostly indoors, but some of it is outside and visitors have to walk outdoors between buildings, so if it’s raining hard you might still want an umbrella.)

Museum of North Vancouver (MONOVA) – this museum was set to open in 2020 but due to COVID-19, the date has been moved to sometime in 2021. Definitely worth checking out once it is open!

Gulf of Georgia Cannery - this museum is in Steveston, and is basically a historic cannery of the 1800s with interactive exhibits, film, and tours that demonstrate the Cannery's important role in the history of Canada's West Coast fishing industry. The visit can be combined with a visit to the Shipyards (outdoors) and Steveston village. Read about my post here about the visit.

Science World – one of the best family-friendly museums of the city with some amazing science exhibits. On certain days, it is free but it is indeed worth it to go once with your kids. It does get crowded though.

UBC Museum of Anthropology – one of the best cultural museums in Metro Vancouver, especially when it comes to indigenous art and history. Once again, great to check out as part of Groupon or a Vancouver Attraction pass.

Beaty Biodiversity Museum – admission at the UBC attraction is between about $10 and $14 depending on your age, but free for children ages 4 and under. Moreover, there are often Groupon deals. You can read my post on this museum here.

Bill Reid Gallery – a Northwest Coast First Nation art gallery that offers free admission on the first Friday of the month from 2 to 5 pm. While it's a small gallery, it's definitely a hidden gem.

Roedde House Museum – a heritage site in Vancouver’s West End. They offer admission by donation on the last Friday of the month, plus “pay-as-you-can” Jazz concerts in the summer.

Old Hastings Mill Store Museum - A somewhat unusual museum, this one is one of the oldest buildings in Vancouver. This museum is full of items dating back from the early days of Vancouver. There is no fixed visiting fee, people can pay whatever they want. The location is a plus as it is right next to the Yaught Club.

H.R. MacMillan Space Centre – the Space Centre’s observatory is open Saturday evenings from 8 pm to midnight by donation. It’s just the observatory with admission by donation, not the Planetarium, but it’s an affordable way to see the stars on a clear evening.

Polygon Gallery – the art museum in North Vancouver’s Lower Lonsdale District has admission by donation.

Vancouver Art Gallery – this is the main art gallery in Vancouver, housed in a building that was once the provincial courthouse. While the architecture is grand, I am not often the fan of their art, which tends to showcase mostly modern art pieces. Admission is by donation on Tuesdays from 5 to 9 pm.

BC Sports Hall of Fame – a museum full of sports memorabilia at BC Place Stadium.


Note, that this list of museums are all indoor museums but there are plenty of other heritage sites that are outdoors, which I will write about later.

If there is anything else you all would like to add?


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To make our evenings more pleasant and our walks more interesting, our family and I decided to start doing self-guided walking tours, with a focus on exploring the heritage of Vancouver and the Lower Mainland. Our first self-guided tour was a 2 kilometer walk that took us through West End, down Burrard and finally downtown. It was around 1 hour long because we stopped at each place for a few minutes, though it can be accomplished in 30 minutes or even 2 hours if you are with a big group. It's a perfect walk for moms and dads with strollers as well (our toddler joined us on this tour.)  

Here's the lowdown. So we began our walk up Davie and arrived at our first destination, which was the St. Paul's Anglican Church. We accidentally thought the Guardian Angels church, on Broughton and Pendrell Street was the one, but that's not it! Keep going up Pendrell and finally you will see the St Paul's Anglican Church on the intersection of Pendrell and Jervis, to your right (if you are going up).


The St. Paul's Anglican Church was established in 1891 at a time when the population of Vancouver was rapidly expanding. In 1905, it was replaced by a larger church, with the original building of the church next to it becoming the parish hall. The style is Gothic revival, and follows the tradition of English parish churches of the time.
 

After the 1980's, the Church started to focus on being more relevant for the diverse community of Vancouver, and in particular, catering to the growing LGBTQ community in Vancouver.

Next on the stop was St. Andrew's Wesley United Church, which most people can see on Burrard Street. To get there, you can continue up Pendrell, walking past the Mole Hill Community which in itself is a historic site. The Mole Hill is the last surviving block of pre-First World War housing and the most significant example of Vancouver’s Victorian and Edwardian era domestic architecture. The block has thirty heritage-listed properties built between 1888 and 1908.

Today, Mole Hill is governed by the Mole Hill Community Housing Society, and contains 170 social housing suites, three daycares, a group home and a host of community assets, set in a park-like environment. 

Once you've seen the Mole Hill community center, you can continue up Pendrell, take a right turn on Thurlow, then another right on Comox until you hit Burrard Street. From Burrard, just continue down in the direction of downtown, and you won't miss the St. Andrew's Wesley United Church, which is just across Sheraton, and next to Century Plaza. It has a tall Gothic tower, with stained glass windows, a vaulted nave, a cross-like shape, and plenty of natural light, giving it a cathedral appearance. The church is product of two separate congregations, that of St. Andrews, and that of Wesley, and these  congregations are part of the United Church of Canada, a union formed from Canada's Methodist, Presbyterian, Local Union, and Congregational churches.  It has been designated as one of Canada's heritage sites. Every Sunday from 4 to 5 PM, the Church has "Jazz Vespers" which allows people to listen to some of Vancouver's finest jazz musicians in its stunning, Gothic atmosphere.



The next church on the walk is along Burrard just across Nelson street. This is the First Baptist Church. The church almost looks like a continuation of St Andrew Wesley United, but is indeed a different one. Though it is not as impressive as the others on the walking tour, it has the most interesting history. In 1886, when Vancouver has just been incorporated, a small group of Baptists saw the increasing need to establish a place of worship for the booming city. The group launched an inaugural Sunday School program on June 5th, at a Vancouver pub called Blair’s Saloon on Abbott Street – welcoming 30 children into the Blair’s Saloon Hall. The following Sunday, June 13, 1886, Blair’s Saloon along with most of the city were destroyed by fire.


Following the fire, two building lots were obtained from the Canadian Pacific Railway on Main Street to construct a dedicated space for worship. Within months, the congregation outgrew the little building on Main Street. Then, a new church with seating for about 800 was built at Hamilton and Dunsmuir Streets by 1887. By the turn of the 20th century, the church's founders decided to set down some roots, and bought the current lot on Burrard and Nelson Streets for $4,000. Before construction started, however, the church faced another setback: a fire in the Sunday School rooms, damaging the roof and foundation. Finally, in 1910, the cornerstone for the new church was laid, and in 1911, the new building was dedicated. However, in 1931 the sanctuary was destroyed by fire again and for the third time, the congregation had to rebuild after a fire!!! Fortunately, that was the end of fires! Since then, the building has grown and changed along with its worshipers. It now continues to serve Vancouver from its key location on the westside and welcomes guests who genuinely want to join its holy fellowship.

The fourth church on the walking tour is the Christ Church Cathedral, which has a special place in Vancouver's history because it is the city's very first church. To get to it, continue down Burrard Street, passing by Robson until you reach West Georgia. The church is once again built in Gothic style with stained glass. Its interior and exterior feature a Celtic cross design while the church's heraldry also features a whorl and three salmon in the artistic style employed by the native Salish people, one of the original inhabitants of Canada's west coast.


In 1976, the lot that the church was located on was designated to be bulldozed so as to make way for a new skyscraper complex. Fortunately, lobbying by Vancouver's people saved the historic edifice, and gave it a place on Vancouver's list of heritage sites. The church is also notable for being one of the churches in Canada to sanctify same sex unions. As of 2003, it officially blesses same sex marriages.

By this time, we were indeed exhausted because we had to entertain a toddler as well. But we prevailed as we had only one more church to go and this was the Holy Rosary Cathedral. From Burrard, we walked one block and took a right on Dunsmuir. Just six streets down was the the Holy Rosary Cathedral, a French Gothic style cathedral resembling the medieval Chartres Cathedral in France. The construction of the cathedral began in 1899 on the site of an earlier church by the same name. It opened December 8, 1900, was blessed the day after, and was consecrated in 1953. The style has been described as  church was elevated to the status of cathedral in 1916. Designed by T.E. Julien, it is considered one of Vancouver's Heritage Sites. 


The exterior walls are made of sandstone that came from Gabriola (one of the islands in BC) and foundations are granite. The bells of Holy Rosary Cathedral are all rung live by bell ringers, and not played from a recording. The original bells were cast in France and shipped to Vancouver, but they weren't in tune. So, it was decided to ship the seven bells, named for the Seven Sacraments, to England to be recast and properly tuned. The result was a ring of eight bells, representing a full musical octave. The bells were finally hung for change ringing in 1906, and have remained so ever since.

Thus ended our walking tour that taught us a great deal about the historic churches of this wonderful city.
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 In case you are wondering what to do on a rainy day, you could check out many of the museums that UBC has to offer, from the Museum of Anthropology to the Beaty Biodiversity Museum. The latter had a great Groupon deal which we grabbed to check out what the Museum was all about. Its probably not worth the full price so definitely go if there is a discount on the tickets.

The Beaty Biodiversity Museum is a natural history museum which first opened to the public in 2010. It isn't an enormous museum, so expect to spend an hour there unless you want to really review each and every collection. 

As soon as you enter the museum, you'll see the museum's most prominent display - a 25-metre (82-foot) skeleton of a female blue whale buried in Tignish, Prince Edward Island, which is suspended over the ramp leading to the main collections. This is Canada's largest blue whale skeleton.


The museum is named after Ross and Trisha Beaty, who were UBC alumni that had donated C$8 million in funding to support the creation of the museum.


Following the museum are rows and rows of collections, with some on display and some that are kept in drawers. On display, you can see specimens of marine invertebrates, mammals, a herbarium, a fish collection as well as fossils. There is definitely less mammal to my liking (only one row, but very impressive) and more creepy crawlies.
The row of mammals has some really nice stuffed up creatures.



At the end of the museum, you can also see three casts of dinosaur trackways from Peace Region area of British Columbia and a board with some information on dinosaurs. Not enough for a dinosaur lover, but still entertaining.


Interesting fact about the building is that it is really sustainable. The building has a green roof and a reed water garden to reduce pollutants and improve drainage of storm water from the building. It doesn't have an air conditioner, except in some of its laboratories. The building relies on natural ventilation and natural lighting. There are also several "recycling hubs" and facilities for the composting of organic waste material.
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Though Surrey gets a bad wrap in the Greater Vancouver area, it does have some few gems to offer. Among those is the Museum of Surrey, which surprisingly is a free-to-visit museum that has a range of engaging exhibits, not to mention scavenger hunts for the kids. It does take around an hour by car to get there from Vancouver, and if you are carless and relying on transit, it would take you two hours (one hour subway, one hour bus).

The Museum had undergone a massive expansion and renovation in 2017, resulting in a footprint of 36,000 square feet. Now, the Museum offers a Cultural Campus with important Surrey heritage buildings such as the Municipal Hall (converted to the Surrey Archives) built in 1912, the Anderson Cabin built in 1872, the restored Town Hall from 1881, and the Anniedale School built in 1891. There is also the TD Explorer Zone, which is a space for kids to learn all about sustainability.

Unfortunately, due to COVID-19, there kids space was closed so we only had a chance to see two of the exhibits that were on show. The first one was called Shake Up and was about earthquakes. But not just physical earthquakes, it also talked about a wrestler named earthquake and about vintage games that taught you about an earthquake. The exhibit also featured an earthquake sound yurt, and a simulated drive down a San Fransisco street just after the 1906 quake.


The exhibit wasn't so large, so we went through it pretty quickly but the other one, on the second floor, was called Surrey Stories. It exhibited the history of the city of Surrey from the late 1800's to early 1900's. The exhibits were amazing, with some old antiquities from everyday life on display, from singer sewing machines, to old type-writers and kitchen boilers. 


Some of these are still probably used today in my own country, Pakistan and probably in many other countries where these mechanical tools are easy to fix and don't require electricity to run.



Within this space was another hall which featured stories from Indigenous peoples and is also definitely worth a visit.

One you exit, just outside this exhibit was the permanent Textile Centre which featured looms, demonstrations, and a collection of textiles and books from the Reference Library. It was a small room, so we just saw it from the outside.

All in all, a great visit. If you have more time, this area is full of other heritage hotspots, including the Fraser Valley Heritage Railway which is just across the museum (among others I saw on the way). I'll be on the lookout for these spots, and will blog about them after my own visit!
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One of the first places we visited in Vancouver, sans baby, was Burnaby Village Museum. At the time, we didn't even have a car, but were easily able to use subway and bus to find our way there. Though technically in Burnaby, it is only a thirty minute drive from downtown Vancouver, or you can take the train to Metrotown and transfer to a bus. It took us approximately 40 minutes.

Unlike typical indoor museums, this one is open-air, and essentially is a museum that re-enacts a community set from the 1920s. There's great attention to detail in each of the sets, which includes a range of things, from homes, shops, post-office and bank of the past, with period-costume donning interpreters.

The Museum is open during the summer, and during parts of Spring Break and Winter Break. It is free (and honestly, would even be worth a paid visit since it is large and you can easily spend two to three hours there.)

As soon as you enter the museum, there's always a line up for the carousel which is at the entrance (I think that is paid but only like $3).


From there, you'll immediately see a bunch of historic buildings from a theater, bakery, barber shop, bank, general store, and post office.


One of the best things about this museum is the open-air aspect, and that you can really enjoy the sun while strolling through the village. However, you can go inside, where you will be greeted by amazing guides and amazing sets. Needless to say, the staff who volunteer there as guides are extremely engaging and knowledgeable and will act in their roles with authenticity.


One of the coolest things we saw was the tram and we were able to check it out and its interiors as well. The tram was recreated from 1918 to 1958.


We didn't have a chance to go again because of the COVID-19 pandemic, but this year (2021) its open again, so we do plan on hitting it up!
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Among the places to visit in Vancouver, the Vancouver Police Museum is not when that usually comes to mind. However, I saw that it popped up on Groupon and thought why not? We ended up going for it on a rainy day and it did not disappoint.

The Vancouver Police Museum (formerly called the Vancouver Police Centennial Museum) was started way back in 1986 by Joe Swan, a former police sergeant and amateur historian. Swan wrote the department's official history book, which was published by the Vancouver Historical Society in 1986, entitled, A Century of Service: The Vancouver Police, 1886-1986.

The museum and is housed in a old brick “heritage” building which, only six years before, was the Coroner’s Court and autopsy facilities. The morgue has since been turned into part of the museum and can be toured. The area the building is in, is in the Hastings area, which houses many homeless and drug addicts, FYI.

You can also check it out on Family Day in February, when entrance is free and there are also activities planned. When we went, we also did a scavenger hunt to search for letters hidden all around the Museum, and it was a fun activity.


The museum houses a number of items. In one room, there were firearms, whereas the main room had a city hall exhibit, police uniforms and vehicles, not to mention a lot of other  memorabilia.


The museum is run by the Vancouver Police Historical Society, a non-profit organization established in 1983 with the mandate to foster interest in the history of the Vancouver Police Department and to open a museum for this purpose. 


The other rooms have wall exhibits so there's less interactive stuff. There are lots of photographs and images and text so you can peruse at your own leisure. Since the museum itself is small, it is worth it to read through the exhibits.


Definitely though, the creepiest part of the museum is the morgue where they do the autopsies and they have specimens of body parts as well. Our daughter delighted in it, but mind I say, it was CREEPY.


This image below is actually organs and some other fairly intense anatomical specimens left over from crime analysis!



Just note that it is a small museum and could take maybe half an hour or an hour to see all of it. However, while the tickets are around $12, there are many days in the year when the museum is free (family day) and there are also lots of Groupons that one can avail to get a good deal.

 The museum is located on Cordova Street, which is one block north of Hastings. There is extensive metered parking in the blocks surrounding the museum, costing $1 per hour


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I was shocked by how Boston had so many underground places to keep warm as did Chicago. Well, turns out Vancouver has its own underground secrets in Gastown, which was actually the original townsite from which Vancouver grew in the 1870s. 

Gastown was named for "Gassy" Jack Deighton, a Yorkshire seaman, steamboat captain and barkeep who arrived in 1867 to open the area's first saloon. He was famous for his habit of talking at length (or "gassing") and the area around his saloon came to be known as "Gassy's town," a nickname that evolved to "Gastown."

The town soon prospered as the site of Hastings Mill sawmill, seaport, and quickly became a general centre of trade and commerce on Burrard Inlet as well as a rough-and-rowdy resort for off-work loggers and fishermen as well as the crews and captains of the many sailing ships which came to Gastown or Moodyville, which was on the north side of the inlet. The Canadian Pacific Railway terminated on piles on the shore parallel to Water Street in 1886. 

Gastown is home to a series of steam pipes connected to a generating plant run under Georgia and Beatty Streets. The system provides heat to most of the downtown core, and provides the steam for the whistles of the famous Gastown steam clock. Despite seeming like a remnant of the Victorian era and being located in Gastown, the Steam Clock is actually from a hundred years later, built in 1977.

Saying the clock is “steam-powered” is factually incorrect, because the clockworks itself is powered by descending weights. The mini-steam engine at the base of the clock case takes up the role of the human “winder” by raising a series of ball weights and delivering the weights to the clock drive train. But the steam engine is connected by a rubber belt to an electric motor hidden from view - much more reliable than steam power. Every quarter-hour, the two-ton Steam Clock shows off a bit, whistling and shooting steam from its five whistles in its version of the Westminster Chime. On the hour it marks each hour with a toot from each whistle. 

There are six other working “Steam” Clocks in the world. The lesson was learned, though – only the whistles are steam and the clockworks are electric. The clock is a key tourists destination in Vancouver. It’s also the near the start and a finish line of the Gastown Grand Prix, a single-day cycling race.

Besides the steam clock, other landmarks in Gastown include Victory Square and statue of Gassy Jack. Victory Square was at one time the grounds of the city's provincial courthouse, which was torn down in 1911–13 when the new Francis Rattenbury-designed courthouse on Georgia Street was opened (now the Vancouver Art Gallery). The location had significance when it was chosen, as it stands at the intersection of the old Granville townsite (aka Gastown) and the Canada Pacific Railway Townsite, which was the downtown-designated land grant  as part of the deal to locate the terminus and thereby found the city (the corner of Hastings and Hamilton is the northern tip of the Townsite).

Gastown is also home to Water Street, named for its proximity to the water, in this case the south shore of Burrard Inlet, and was briefly known as Front Street. Water Street is a great place to walk around, with its cobblestone footpaths.  In the early to mid 20th century, Water Street was the center of Vancouver's food, clothing and dry goods wholesale businesses. Due to Vancouver being the main port of western Canada, much of the trading of goods from east Asia went through Water Street.

Some great cafes in the area include the Prado Cafe, with local roasts from 49th Parallel Coffee Roasters, as well as a number of brunch options. Close by is also Vancouver Lookout, which I think is a bit overpriced but you might like it.

I'll be updating a self-guided walk in this area so stay tuned. And remember to book your next hotel soon!

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Siem Reap is world renowned for being home to Angkor Wat, the famous temple which happens to also be pictured on Cambodia’s flag. Part of Angkor Wat was used for filming Tomb Raider (the older one with Angelina Jolie).

Most trips to Cambodia are made to see Angkor Watt, and there are numerous tours you can sign up for. The best time to visit is perhaps in the cooler Winter months, as much of the Mekong regions remains warm all year round, but is unbearably humid in the summer.

In terms of where to stay, Siem Reap like the rest of Cambodia has amazing options. If I were you, I'd splurge $40-50 on a five star hotel because this is the only country where this is possible. Sure, you can get a dorm for $5/night, but it won't offer you a complimentary welcome drink, breakfast, massage and airport transport (yeap, these are almost always included in the $50 stay).

Siem Reap is not necessarily walking friendly, so the best way to get around is by tuk tuk. The cost of tuk tuks is usually $2-5 within the city, but you'd need to negotiate it.

To get to Angkor Wat, and to visit the other temples in the Angkor Wat complex, you would need to get a tuk tuk. A half day tuk tuk usually costs $15. The entrance fee for the complex varies. In 2019, the 1 day pass was $37, the 3 day pass was 62 USD and the 7 Day pass was 72 USD. The 3-days pass lasts for 10 days after purchase whereas the 7-days pass last for one month. You can get the ticket at the ticket office which is where you tuk-tuk driver will drop you off first before continuing.

Getting a 3 day pass is futile if you are there for less than a week, because you will need around 6-7 days to see those temples. If you are in Siem Reap for only three days, get a one day pass which will make you see Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Bayon Temple, Baphuon, etc. and Banteay Srei, 20 km away from Angkor Wat. You can spend the next day relaxing in a spa (a massage will cost you as little as $5), and the last day at another temple known as Beng Melea temple. Buy the pass at the official ticket office or else you might get scammed.

A few things to keep in mind, since it will be warm and you'd be tempted to wear shorts. Angkor Watt enforced a strict dress code, and you are expected to cover your knees and shoulders, and in general be modestly attired.

In terms of currency, the USD is often used, though the local currency is Riels, and most of the change you will get will be in Riels (Around 4500 riels make a dollar)!

Siem Reap is generally safe but like most Southeast Asian countries, petty thefts can happen. In my experience, its better than Phnom Penh (someone tried to grab my bag there, but no such thing has happened here). Exercise caution and don't wear expensive things. Also, do not put your bags near a window of a tuk-tuk where one can grab easily.



Angor Wat is quite stunning, since it is located in front a pond. Most tourists do a sunset or sunrise here, and watch the pond reflect the Watt. You might get lots of tuk tuk drivers willing to give a ride and provide a tour. Here's the one I used, and I can guarantee was quite nice: 

After watching Angkor Wat at sunrise, head over to the Ta Prohm Temple,  or as some of you may know the Tomb Raider's tree.



Unlike most Angkor temples in the area, Ta Prohm temple is one of the few temples that was not renovated and is left as it had been found allowing it to maintain its picturesque nature. Also, it is one of the few temples with which merged with nature beautifully but not yet part of the jungle. Once you are done with Ta Prohm temple, you can walk north towards a mountain-looking temple, the Ta Keo temple, one of the first temples that were built entirely of sandstone.Its pyramid-like shape, five-tier terraces, and steep stone stairs make Ta Keo a great viewpoint to climb up and see the landscape, or mostly jungles around the area. Then, there is also the Bayon temple, Angkor Thom, where you see 216 carved faces. At the end, hop on the tuk-tuk and check out Bantaey Srei, a stunning 10th-century Cambodian temple built with red sandstone, giving it a completely unique look compared to what you just saw at Angkor Wat.


For the evening, you have Pub Street, which is the main tourist street where you can find overpriced drinks and western food that you can indulge yourself in. It's touristy, sure, but if you look around the area carefully, you will be able to find small pockets of interesting things to do like the Made in Cambodia market where they sell locally-made handicrafts.

Even if you don't plan to buy anything, it is still quite interesting to walk around the market and Pub Street to find a nice cool restaurant with a great view or a bar to enjoy the rest of your night.


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Our last trip with our pal Natalie from Tour08 was one going to Sobaekson festival and some UNESCO sites in the Gyeongsang province. And along the way, we met some very interesting people, from Ms. Esther to others. Much like any other day when we went on these trips, this one included grunts and grumbles from hubby dearest because the trip began too early for his own.

We began the trip from Seoul making our way to the Azalea festival near Sobaekson, a mountain of the Sobaek Mountains near the city of Yeongju in the province of Gyeongsangbuk-do.  Sadly, there were no Azaleas at the time and it was very hot. The festival was very small compared to typical Korean festivals but we kept hope that the trip would get better (and it did). So we killed some time roaming around and a quick hike on the mountain. After a long hike up in the heat, we arrived at a temple where a lady gave me rice cakes as I was pregnant. This was enough hiking for us and we headed back down.


The hikes in Korea tend to be carpeted with this jute-like material which really makes it very pleasant without worrying about twisting your feet. Where's the wilderness in it? Well, honestly, I don't romanticize wilderness and convenience is much appreciated!


After our lovely hike, there was a lucky draw at the festival and our tour group bagged some big prizes, including a bicycle and AC unit.

We didn't spend more time there, as we quickly headed to the Ginseng market for getting some lunch and exploring the market. It wasn't really much so we picked up some snacks and spent the time talking with friends since this was our last trip in Korea.

Then, we began our long drive to Andong, the capital of North Gyeongsang Province and a fairly large city that has popularized the dish, jimddak and the Andong masks. In the past, it was also the center of Confucianism, culture and folk traditions, though now, a large population has moved from Andong to Seoul. In fact, one of our friends on the trip is a descendant of one of the very influential families of Andong (that were politically very important as well!) and informs us that few of her relatives remain here.

Once we got to Andong, it was already getting dark so we were allotted our rooms and then taken to a restaurant where lo and behild, jimdak awaited us for dinner.


Our group picture - yes, it was a LARGE group but it felt very small since we knew most of the people and this was probably our 30th Tour08 trip.


After a yummy dinner of jimdakk, we made apple pies (well they were baked by someone else.) Lucky us managed to get extra dough and make two!



Our accommodation was beautiful - the village is called Seonbi village and we strolled around it at night. It was honestly one of the nicest Hanok villages I've seen. 

The next day was delightful. After breakfast, we made our way to the Bonjeongsa temple. The temple is on the slopes of Mount Cheondeung in Andong and is the largest temple in the city. It is also the site of the oldest wooden building, Geuknakjeon, in Korea. Fun fact: During her trip to Korea in 1999, Queen Elizabeth II of the United Kingdom was particularly impressed by the scale and beauty of Bongjeonsa Temple.


This was one of the best temples I've seen in Korea and yes, I've made a mental note to take my kids here! After this, we did a small rest stop for lunch and then made our way to Hahoe Village which was quite close. The village had carts that we rented and went around with.



Going around in the cart/scooter was fun. We had three friends with us, and we did a few arounds looking at the fields and then the tiny roads. We were told that people still live here and we had to remain very quiet. There was also a lake we saw where we had time to cool off a bit.

After our delightful trip, it was time to head back. Our bus took us to the train station where we took the slow Mugunwha back but given that it was full of our friends, it wasn't too bad and was certainly better than the bus which would have been stuck in traffic!

We will really miss Tour08!
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Vientiane is the capital of Lao PDR, and though I tend to hate all Asian capitals, I've grown to like Vientiane (along with Phnom Penh). It's a sleepy town, but very pedestrian friendly and bike friendly.
However, 1 to 2 days should be enough for you to see the most of Vientiane. I've written about Buddha Park already, but here are some other sights to enjoy while you're in the city for a day, and all can be done on foot!

1. The Laos National Museum

This museum was originally built in 1925 as the French governor’s residence, but now, it focuses on the history of Laos albeit from an anti-American stance, highlighting the Laotian people’s struggle to free the country from foreign occupiers and imperialist forces. Although the museum from the inside is in disarray, what is worth noticing is the anti-American rhetoric.


After I went home, I discovered that the US was involved in a secret war in Lao. Much of the northern part of Lao was bombed by the Americans to fight the Communists in Vietnam. In fact,  the US pledged support to the Royal Lao Government and conducted nearly 600,000 bombing runs in an attempt to oust communist forces throughout the sovereign state. Predictably, it was not the combatants but rather the civilians who suffered most, and they were not communists. They were simply innocent people.

2. Morning in Wat Sisaket 
Wat Sistaket is the oldest monastery in Lao, well known for the number of Buddha images inside. It's best known for the Buddha statues as well as some really interesting Buddha photos. What I found interesting is how Buddhist is visualized in Lao, that is very different from in India and Korea too.


The temple was built in 1818 on the order of King Anouvong. Kind Anouvong was the last king of Vientiane, who led the Lao rebellion against the Siamese. Surprisingly, he built this temple in the Siamese style of Buddhist architecture, with a surrounding terrace and an ornate roof, rather than in the Lao style.



It is believed that this design actually helped in keeping it safe, when the armies of Siam  sacked Vientiane. When the French colonialists arrived, they restored Wat Si Saket in 1924 and again in 1930. The temple houses a museum and is well known for a line of ceramic Buddha images.



3. Presidential Palace
Once done with the Wat, head over to the Presidential Palace where you will see lots of Asian tourists taking pictures. It is just opposite the Wat Sisaket and is a new building designed in 973 as the residence for Laos’ royal family. When the communists took over, the construction of this palace was delayed.


The palace looks very grand and European, with White House feels. I couldn't enter is since its closed off to the public.  Now, the Presidential Palace is only a venue for government functions – the president’s actual home is actually located in a separate suburb of Vientiane.

4. Patuxai Park and Victory Gate
Across the Presidential Palace is a large highway road that leads up to the Patuxai Park. Patuxai means Victory Gate or Gate of Triumph. It is a war monument dedicated to those who fought in the struggle for independence from France.


Though I didn't know it, Patuxai Victory Gate is meant to resemble a famous structure called the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. However, the Vientiane version is a tad bit taller, made of concrete, and is  Laotian in design with some Lao mythical creatures. It was built from funds given by the US to build an airport, expect the Lao government built this.

 5. City Center Wats and Coffee
A few less frequented Wats can be visited in the city center. One is Wat Inpheng, which was built in the 16th century but destroyed in 1827 by the invading Siamese army. Later, it was rebuilt and has since been renovated several times. The other is Wat Ong Teu. It is well known for the large, bronze Phra Ong Teu Buddha in the temple. Like the other Wat Inpheng, it got destroyed by the Burmese, and later reconstructed. Both the wats are located near great coffee shops (and Vientiane has great and cheap coffee so don't miss it!)


6. An Evening Visit to Wat Xieng Nyeun and the Park
Though you're going to be sick of seeing temples, this one could be easily fit in with a visit to the Anouvang park across. I never know how to pronounce this temple, but its located conveniently on the riverfront road. Just directly opposite it is a nice shady park called Anouvong Park and the Chao Anouvong statue, where you can relax afterwards. Wat Xieng Nyeun is mostly overlooked by the crowds of tourists that flock to the better-known alternatives. It means visitors can get a more authentic glimpse of the daily workings of a Buddhist temple.  Its also right next to a great massage place. 


7. Finish at the Night Market
As you walk along the riverfront from the Park, if its after 5 - 6 pm, you will see stalls being set up. That is Vientiane’s night market. Though the stuff is not so great, it is fun to walk through. I'd say its a little like the underground markets in Seoul, but cheaper. You can, however, get some $1-2 shorts and summer attire.
Not bad!

Some food is also sold there, but I'd advise against the food. It may not be the most hygienic.  Instead, a few options would be to try out the House of Fruit Shakes,  Ray's Grille Burgers & Mexican, Common Ground or any local Laos food you fancy!
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About me

Hi everyone! I'm Laila. Welcome to my blog! Here, you'll find stories of me and my family as we explore the world. It's not easy traveling when you often need visas, or you have kids, but we have made travel work for us! Join us, as we make some curious discoveries of history, food and culture while treading on new paths.

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