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One of the most magical experiences I have had in Seoul is at L’atelier, an indoor impressionism-art-theme park located in Dongdaemun, Seoul. For art lovers and technologists alike, the theme park is unusual - it brings alive the paintings of Vincent Van Gogh, Claude Monet, and others in the most interesting of manners. L’atelier is a word that combines ‘light’, a keyword that symbolizes the Impressionist paintings, called the ‘paintings of light’, and ‘atelier’, which refers to the workshops for the contemporary artists. The theme park has thus been designed to allow visitors to enjoy themselves in Paris, by recreating the same streets.

Some of the famous areas recreated are: Palace du Tertre, Montmartre, Madeleine Flower Market, Place du Lamartine and Palace du Forum. Every detail has been paid attention to, starting from the patterns of the floors and the walls, to each chair’s cushion, which are designed to look similar to a pillow in Van Gogh’s “The Bedroom.” Even the digital animations of paintings on the walls interact with the visitors.


The sets have been carefully done up, paying attention to even the smallest of details, and the lighting and technology is very appropriately placed. Most of the windows display a video, which is responsive. That means, when you go near the window, someone starts talking to you!

The exhibition also highlights the life of the greatest Impressionist artists such as Van Gogh, Edouard Manet and Edouard Leon Cortes, through a recreation of Paris, in the 1,400-square-meter space. 

There's a lot of landscapes and scenes which are projected on the walls throughout the indoor theme park.  They also have a gallery of the artwork, and many of the paintings are animated. This means you can see slight animations - However, they have an amazing feel to them.

  

There are also three performances you can see. One is Monet’s Lily pond media-art-show and the other two performances revolve around the life of Van Gogh. An actor, impersonating famous French novelist Emile Zola, uses hologram images to pose a question about why Van Gogh ended up committing suicide, then a musical created by the company shows the creative genius’ life, from an enthusiastic young man to an old miserable loner. Though everything is in Korean, you will get simultaneous English and Chinese translations. 


The exhibition is totally worth it! Tickets are for 24,000 KRW ($20) but discounted on the last Wednesdays of the month - because of Culture day! To get here, go to Dongdaemun Hyundai City Outlet is five minutes away from Dongdaemun History and Culture Park station, lines no. 2, 4 and 5. L’atelier is on the 11th floor of the building. 


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Seoul has some amazing hidden treasures, but many of these hidden treasures have been deliberate in an attempt to boost one thing or another. One such place, which is one of my favorites, is Cartoon Street. It is called in Korean, Zaemiro, meaning "street of fun".

The street was meant to bring back "Manhwa", the Korean word for cartoons, comic strips, comic books, and graphic novels. In Korea, the cartoon culture is different from other places and almost not recognizable. I grew up watching Hannah Barbera and Flintstones, but in Korea, it seems there was an alternative cartoon culture, that I may never connect to - but I truly appreciate it and can sense the nostalgia.

Supposedly, this road started in 2013, by Seoul's city government to promote the "imaginative industry" and boost tourism and the local economy.


The street connects Namsan Mountain and Myeong-dong. The entrance of the street begins as a tiny alley found between Exits 2 and 3 of Myeongdong Station, along subway line No. 4, at a fork in the road by the Pacific Hotel. From here, you see a really adorable picture, and then continue on to an unassuming alley.




Continue on and you see stairs!


Voila, you continue and then you will find an alley of artwork. This is basically, the "cartoon hill" which opens in front of the Seoul Animation Center. It has cartoon characters from 40 artists, including Lee Hyun-se, Huh Young-man, and Hwang Mi-na.





The street is also host to many events. In February 2014, individual cartoonists were invited every Saturday to Zaemirang to spend time with their fans and draw pictures while a "Cartoon Concert" of indie bands performed. The "Cartoon Street Festival" in November 2014 featured cartoon stories, a costume play photo tour of cartoon clubs, and Korean traditional dress and games.  At the end of the street, you will finally come out on the main road and see the Animation Center. Before that, you will come across a random Elvis store.


I tried to check what was happening there, but the door was locked. It was odd, because finding Elvis in Korea is so unusual, especially as I am exploring a particularly Korean pop culture. Anyways, from there, I see the Seoul Animation Center - Here is the image from outside!


Its an old but colorful building, and was established by the Seoul Metropolitan Government in 1999. The center is quite functional and runs an information desk, offers educational programs, holds events to support new talents and productions, and hosts diverse events and exhibitions. Once you go inside, there is a lot to do, from dress up to animation gallery to VR games. The gallery is upstairs and worth a look.
 
Inside, there is also a large AniCinema for diverse cultural events and films. Moreover, there is also Comic & animation education for children, and youth (you can try making stop-motion cartoons there) and there is a library and a movie room. Not to mention lots of photo-ops.

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Over the summer, when my family is over, I took them all to Gwangmyeong Caves to cool off. Just to orient you, Gwangmyeong is Gyeonggi-do’s capital, which is where Seoul, the capital is. The city is also home to the largest IKEA, and has a Costco, and Lotte Premium Outlets.

To get here is pretty straightforward. You can take a direct Saemaul train from Seoul Station to Gwangmyeong Station, or take the regular subway to Gwangmyeong Station. From there, you get on bus 17 in front of the station and get off at Gwangmyeong cave.

I’m fairly certain no one has made a theme park inside a cave, but if you're in Korea, you get these weird experiences. The cave, besides being wonderfully cool for the summers, has some cool LED installations and sights, things you wouldn’t necessarily think would go together.

A little about the cave's history - it was formerly called Siheung Mine and was a coal mine where people were drafted to work by force during the Japanese Colonial Rule. There's a section in the cave which serves as a place to commemorate the memories of coal mining workers. 

“After liberation, Gwangmyeong Cave became the largest mine in the capital region, producing nearly 100 tonnes of gold, silver, copper, and zinc every month.” (Gwangmyeong Cave brochure)  

Thereafter, it became the largest mine in the Seoul area from 1912 to 1972, with copper, gold, silver, and zinc as its products for war supplies. The company owning it went bankrupt at the end of the Korean War. Hence, the mine was closed for 40 years, from 1972 to 2011. In 2011, after being purchased by Gwangmyeong City, it was transformed into an attraction.

As I already mentioned this cave has all sorts of really cool things to see so I’m just going to show you what we saw while we were there.  At the entrance of the cave there are hard hats that you can wear if you like. The cave, which spans 7.9 km in length and 275 m in depth, shot to fame when it became the setting for an episode of the TV show Running Man. Don't worry about the walking, you really won’t perspire due to its cold environment.

It begins with a garden:



And then, of course, it wouldn’t be a proper attraction without technology. Hence, the garden leads you into the starry tunnel.




From there you take the path to the right and go down into a performance area where you see projection mapping. Along the way, you see some LED art displays in different locations throughout the cave.

 

 There is also a small aquarium: 

 


There is then, the gold attractions, which make for great sights. 


One of the more flocked artefacts in the cave is the golden statue of Aisha in which, as the legend says, touching the golden coins sitting in her hand will grant you prosperity and happiness in the future. This is the reason why a lot of tourists line up to see if it would work.


There are several “gold” attractions where guests are encouraged to makes wishes. You buy a plaque, write a message and hang it as you can see below:


    

Then you come to stairs leading further into the cave.  I was hoping that we’d go down and not have to come back up, but you do have to come back up. At the bottom of the steps is the time tunnel exhibit.


    


In another large cavern you find the “Lord of the Cave” (the dragon) and Gollum.  See what I mean, random.  According to the brochure the dragon is the largest dragon statue in Korea and was manufactured by New Zealand Weta Workshop which is famous for it’s work on Lord of the Rings.  Pretty cool.



As you make your way back up the steps you come to an art exhibit.  It’s a great place to stop and catch your breath before you tackle the last set of steps. You can also peer down into the underground lake.


And then you come to the Wine Cave portion of the cave!  The Wine Cave has many types of Korean wines for sale and they also hold a Wine festival.

The last stretch of the cave takes you through a small museum, and then you return back.

This entire trip will take around 1-2 hours in total transit and 3-4 hours in the caves, so likely in total, you could do this in half a day!
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One of the weekends, I ended up taking a walking tour, this time of a traditional market in Dongdaemun. Little did I know that the tour was through Jegidong and the medicinal market. The tour began at Jegi-dong Station along with three other people. The tour lady was someone I had met before, from an earlier tour I had taken (all of these are older people retired and now volunteering). From a quick scan down the platform, it was clear as if I had moved into an elderly community and I might have been the only person under 30. Later, I discovered that Line 1 cuts across the older parts of town, which are popular with the older folk. Our guide also informed us the the elderly in particular found this place appealing given the older markets it has, the history and its linkage with illness. 
Northwest of the station is the area leading up to Korea University and Anam Station, where you can see the younger crowd and the line of restaurants and cafes.
We started the trip first at the Seonnongdan Altar, which reminded me of the Sajik Altar near Seochon. The altar is dedicated to the "gods", which were the Chinese emperors Shen Nung and Hou Ji. They were revered because they introduced the secrets of agriculture to the Korean people. This altar was built in 1475, and at the time, the Joseon kings  made it an annual tradition to take up plowing around the Seonnong altar to promote agriculture. This rite was suspended in 1908 due to the Japanese occupation of the peninsula, but has since resumed from 1979.
Right next to the altar is this museum building which talks about the altar, and tells the history of agriculture. It's all in Korean so better to go through this with a tour guide. The place was built through an architectural design competition, where Seonnongdan was designated to be history and culture park, in which formality of the rituals merges with the actual historical and cultural content of the place.
After that, we visited the Gyeongdong Market, a traditional market which was a "bojewon" during the Josean Dynasty. A Bojewon was a place that provided free accommodation for travelers and helped the people in need suffering from poverty and illness by helping them to heal. The market is known by other names, given that the vicinity has a bunch of markets. It doesn't differ significantly from other traditional markets, except for the part dealing with medicines, which is called the  Yangnyeong Market. This part has a bunch of herbs and spices, and ginseng and roots that look like ginger. This is the largest and one of the most famous oriental medicine markets in Korea. 

This place is certainly not for the faint of heart. The smell (some may call it aroma, but I beg to differ) of fish, kimchi, random animals, ginseng in bottles all are kind of creepy, like entering some laboratory. The last stop was to this amazing museum, called the Seoul Yangnyeongsi Herb Medicine Museum, a block or so down the road. The building looks gorgeous from the outside, the wood and paper windows make for a great photo op.


There are additional facilities in the museum where you can sample herb tea, grind your own medicine and get a health checkup.  It’s also neatly arranged and informative, while also recognizing that most visitors aren’t looking for overly exhaustive explanations.  Most, though not all, exhibits have basic English explanations. There are also a number of interactive displays!



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One of the first things I love to do in a new place is try street food. I don't know about you but I have a habit of snacking, and preferably, I can replace these snacks with entire meals. In South Korea, I've been lucky to try some really quirky and interesting things. Of course, read my post on Gwangjang market to get to see more food pictures.

Tteokbokki
This is perhaps the most popular Korean food items, found at almost all street corner. It is basically a rice cake, which is called tteok in Korean, that is seasoned in red chilli gochujang sauce. Again, Gochujang sauce is the primer in all Korean foods, made by fermenting soybeans and red chillies into a sauce that is used extensively, even in bibimbap. They say that tteokbokki used to be just for the royal court, but now even partygoers will stop on the street to fill up on it. The chewy rice cakes taste quite neutral themselves and almost demand the spicy and sweet sauce.  

Gyeranbbang
Gyeran means egg and bbang means bread/cake. It’s a warm soft fluffy bread topped with egg that you can easily find in most streets of Korea.


3. Korean fried chicken
Yes, Korean-style fried chicken is basically KFC with the red sauce, gonjuchang.(yangnyeom tongdak) is a fusion food, the origins of which go back to when American soldiers met Korean tastes during the Korean War. But what a fusion, with tender, smaller chicken pieces drizzled with finger-licking spices. Or chicken that can go to town in spicy honey sauces, sesame seeds, garlic, peanuts and chilli flakes. The chilli-shy can try it with a straight up crunchy coating under a nest of grease-cutting spring onion threads. Something about combining Korean chicken with beer (mekju) is so right, with the beer and a side of pickles cleaning the palate for more. No wonder this combo, known as chimek (chicken + mekju), is popular in bars and casual chimek diners, but you’ll also find Korean chicken at street stalls. The small boneless bite-sized pieces are still double fried, Korean style, giving them that distinctive crackle. A small box is a great way to satisfy a craving or try parmesan flavour for maximum fusion.

Twigim (Korean-style tempura)
Twigim is a fancy name for fried tempuras and vegetables. More common are seafood tempuras or prawns, sweet potatoes, some green vegetables etc. Almost all vendors sell it for like $2 -$3 for 5 pieces of fried deliciousness.

Gimbap (Korean sushi)
They look like sushi, but don't taste as good and often contain spam. I'm not the biggest fan of gimbap, but if you like the seaweed and rice combo, go for it. Fillings are often lots of veggies, spam, tofu, or egg. Usually a $1 for a roll.


Korean pancakes
So there are two types of pancakes. One are the green colored ones called pajeon. These are basically stuffed with leeks and green onions, while another variant called the haemul pajeon are filled with seafood and squid. 

A nicer version, in my honest opinion, is the bindaetteok, which you can try at Gwangjang, and they are not green colored. Instead, they are a traditional thick pancake made of a unique batter of mung beans.


Odeng (fish-cake skewers)
Odeng are fishcakes on a skewer that are often served with a broth. If you are spice- or meat-shy, this is your street-eat saviour. The main flavour is a soft and smooth fishcake, either elongated or flat and folded over, the skewers jutting from steaming vats of broth. This hot soup is a gentle seafood and spring onion-infused broth that Koreans say cures hangovers. It’s popular in winter and many Koreans drink the soup alongside soju to temper the alcohol’s fire. Everything is self-serve, just ladle the satisfying broth, help yourself to the skewers and the stall keeper will count up the sticks when you’re done. In larger places, you’ll find different coloured skewers that correspond to different prices on the price board.

Hotteok 
While they are called a Korean doughnut, they don't taste like one. I'm not the biggest fan of the savory ones but I like the sweet ones. The really popular ones are the ones filled with sesame seeds and peanuts and found in Busan. I like the ones with red beans and honey.

Bungeoppang and gukhwappang (red bean waffles)
You will often see these fish shaped waffles. Real nice. In any town in Korea, cute fish-shaped sweet cakes will be there on the streets. These bungeoppang have a golden brown, waffle-like exterior that is both soft and crispy to bite into, giving way to hot sweet red bean paste. There is no actual fish in bungeoppang, and you’ll find street vendors pouring a kettle of batter into moulds of other shapes, too, such as chrysanthemum-flowers to make gukhwappang.

Dakkochi
Again another fancy name for plain old chicken skewers. Though not the best street food, I like them because I don't eat pork. Also, since these are not overly friend, I really like them.



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Although most people see Gyeongbukgung the first week in Seoul, we left it for the sixth month, and to be honest, there were no regrets since we saw the palace in excellent weather in the fall, when the leaves had turned crimson and orange. You can book your tour through Klook or Voyagin.

Gyeongbukgung, is the grandest, and also the most touristy of the palaces in Seoul. The Palace was originally built by King Taejo, who was the founder of the Joseon dynasty. This dynasty is the most recent, and also all the palaces in Seoul are from this period. Anyways, Gyeongbokgung served as the principal palace for the Josean dynasty until 1592, when it was burnt down during the Japanese invasions. At that time, the main palace was Changdeokgung (which I have visited and written about earlier).


After the Japanese invasions, Gyeongbukgung lay in ruins for nearly 300 years until the King Heungseon Daewongun, who was regent and father of King Gojong, started to rebuild it in 1865. King Gojong moved in during 1868, but the expensive rebuilding project virtually bankrupted the government.

To get to the Palace, you come through Gwanghwamun station. The entrance has a pair of lion-looking animals. These are mythical creatures called haetae, that are meant to be guardians of Seoul. Then, as you go straight, you will see the main courtyard with the towering ornate two-storey Geunjeongjeon, the main palace building. It is made of wood, with a double-tiered stone platform and surrounding open-sided corridors. This hall was where kings were crowned, met foreign envoys and conducted affairs of state.




























Seven of the twelve Josean kings were enthroned in Geunjeongjeon. These include Chogjong, Sejong, Tanjong, Sejo, Seongjong, Chunjong, and Myongjong. It was burned down during the Japanese invasion in 1592 and rebuilt in 1867, during the reign of King Kojong. The throne is centered toward the back of the hall. There used to be ritual objects there, but none now remain.



The building has a high-ceiling, single room structure on a double-level platform. Behind the throne, and in fact throughout the palace, you can see the famous  painting of a sun and moon, five peaks, called Irwoldo. The sun and moon symbolize the king and queen while the five peaks denotes a mythical place. The screen serves to display the majesty of the Joseon royal court.



West of Geunjeongjeon is the spectacular Gyeonghoeru, a large raised pavilion resting on 48 stone pillars and overlooking an artificial lake, with two small islands. State banquets were held inside and kings went boating on the pond. It is known to be the largest pavilion in South Korea and was a favored place for the King to entertain visiting dignitaries. King Taejo, founder of the Chosun Dynasty and builder of the Gyeongbok Palace, had the pavilion erected on this man-made lake in the western section of the palace.



Later, King Daejeong, who ruled from 1401 to 1408 ordered his Minister of Manufacturing and Construction (Pak Cha-chong) to enlarge both the lake and the structure. Minister Park built a square with dragon-shaped island supported by a long stone on which to construct the larger pavilion. Forty-eight stone pillars, sculptured with dragons, supported the second floor. Two more islets were made in the lake.



During the Japanese invasion in 1592, the original Gyeonghoeru was burned down leaving only the stone supports. When Gyeongbok palace was rebuilt in 1867, the fourth year of the reign of King Kojong the pavilion was reconstructed. The pillars were replaced with new ones that lack the splendor of the former. But animals were carried on the stone brides and railings. There are such stone structures as the Lotus Pond, Lotus Platform, and dragon-shaped conduits along the lake. This pavilion was used for royal banquets during the Chosun period and is used today for special functions.


A series of smaller meeting halls precede the king’s living quarters Gangyeongjeon, behind which are Gyotaejeon, the queen’s chambers. Behind that is a terraced garden, Amisan; the brick chimneys decorated with longevity symbols on the garden’s top terrace are to release the smoke from the palace's ondol (underfloor heating) system.


One special thing to see is the chimney of Chageyong-jeon (designated Treasure #810) forms a part of the wall of the courtyard. It has ten exhausts on the top of the chimney, which is titled to resemble the beams and rafters of a wooden structure. The chimney is decorated with various designs for long life, wealth, and many offsprings, as well as signs to repel evil. On the lower half of the wall is a large decorative panel, the background of which is plaster. It contains a design of the sun, a mountain, water, clouds, a rock, pine tree, turtle, deer, crane, grapes, the fungus of immortality, bamboo, chrysanthemum, and lotus


On the eastern side of the grounds is Donggun, the living quarters for the Crown Prince. To the rear, King Gojong built more halls for his own personal use and an ornamental pond with Hyangwonjeong, an attractive hexagonal pavilion on an island.

Altogether the palace consisted of 330 buildings and had up to 3000 staff, including 140 eunuchs, all serving the royal family. During Japanese colonial rule, most of the palace was again destroyed – much of what you see today are accurate recent reconstructions.

If you have more time, you can also visit the National Folk Museum which sits in the northern section of the palace. Although we didn't tour it, I have heard that the museum has the best collection of Korean souvenirs.
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About me

Hi everyone! I'm Laila. Welcome to my blog! Here, you'll find stories of me and my family as we explore the world. It's not easy traveling when you often need visas, or you have kids, but we have made travel work for us! Join us, as we make some curious discoveries of history, food and culture while treading on new paths.

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